It is generally accepted that structure is needed to improve glide under all conditions. Stonegrinding does a very good job of getting the skis close to ideal performance, however skis need to be fined tuned with conditions-specific structure that stonegrinding alone cannot produce. The Red Creek Riller is just such a hand tool that can be used to create specific structure for a variety of snow conditions and for a variety of ski types.  The structure enhances not only glide, but the general feel of the skis as well.  Cold, dry snow requires fine, tight patterns while warm and wet snow requires wider, deeper, and more spaced apart pattern. On the World Cup circuit it’s common to see stoneground skis followed up with hand rilling.

It has been widely known that the warmer and more humid the conditions, more aggressive structure is needed. Presently structure is also added to even the coldest conditions, however only if the initial base structure is very fine to begin with.  Too much, or too aggressive, structure in cold snow will never yield fast skis.

For best results use very fine stoneground skis - these are most versatile and will give the best outcome under most conditions. Rilling is the last step of ski preparation and is therefore done on a waxed and brushed pair of skis. 

Rilling Guidelines:

• Rill from tip to tail
• Operate the Red Creek Riller in the direction indicated by the arrow on the Red Creek Riller
• Apply pressure directly over the structuring roller.

Apply more pressure, which translates into deeper structure, when the humidity is higher.  When more structure is desired, without lifting or removing the riller from the ski base, apply even pressure and use short strokes back and forth until the entire ski base has structure added to it.  Follow up with the nylon brush. For best results use the Red Creek fine nylon roto brush.

Additional Guidelines:

• Do not add structure to the grip zones/wax pocket (classic skis).
• The hand rilled structure disappears after the next wax job.

Clean the structuring roller from any glide wax remains using a fine metal brush.  The actual structure rollers must be handled with care so as not to damage their intricate patterns.

The following riller variations are available:

RC034 - “Christmas Bough” / “Herringbone”

For temperatures between +15°C and -5°C. Likely the most commonly used structure during late winter/spring conditions.  This riller can be used in combination with the “Rake 1mm” or the “Rake 2mm” in above-zero conditions. For these conditions use the Rake structures first followed by the Red Creek Riller +15/-5. 

RC035 - Red Creek Riller 0/-10 “Christmas Bough” / “Herringbone”

For temperatures between 0°C and -10°C.  This is likely the most common structure to be used during the winter.  Apply more pressure when the temperature is warmer.

RC036 - Red Creek Riller -5/-20 “Oblique”

For temperatures between -5°C and -20°C.  Works best in fine grained new and cold snow. Opens/“exposes” the hard polished finishes used when the temperatures are cold and the snow is hard.  Rilling with the “Oblique” improves glide when used under these conditions.

RC033 - Red Creek Riller “Rake 1mm”

Is used in above zero conditions, but when the humidity is high, it can also be utilized down to -5°C.  It is often used in combination with Red Creek Riller +15/-5.  Use the Rake first and finish with the Herringbone.  Under colder conditions, apply less pressure when rilling.

RC037 - Red Creek Riller “Rake 2mm”

Is used under wet and sloppy conditions and often in combination with the Red Creek Riller +15/-5 and the Rake 1mm.

RC080 - Red Creek Riller “Rake 3mm”

Is used under wet and sloppy conditions and often in combination with the Red Creek Riller +15/-5. 

RC038 - Red Creek Riller “Groove”

Used when the classic tracks are deteriorating or when skating in loose snow, and also when the conditions are wet, changing, and loose. It does not improve glide on hard packed tracks, but it won’t hinder glide either.

How to prep freshly stoneground skis…

1.      Stone Grinding

Stone grinding has become one of the most essential steps in the preparation of skis today, especially competition skis.  Proper stone grinding makes the ski perform better at every level. It produces a flat base, removes any oxidation, and gives the ski its base structure. For best results, fine and extra fine structure is used in cold, dry conditions while a bit more aggressive structure is common in zero and moist conditions and fairly aggressive structure is used in very wet, suction conditions.

The final fine-tuning on race, or ski, day however is done by hand using a proper rilling tool such as the Red Creek Seven Rolling-blade system.  It should be noted that proper Stone Grinding is also absolutely necessary for used skis.

2.      Follow these steps for cleaning and prepping the base after stone grinding:

·        Slight Fibretexing and brushing with the fine steel brush (roto or hand)

·        Vauhti Base Prep Paraffin – melts at low temperature and deeply penetrates the base

§         Iron in a generous amount of paraffin

§         Lifts and removes any residual particles and dirt

·        Hot scrape with a sharp scraper

·        Repeat with Vauhti Base Prep Paraffin

·        Hot scrape with a dull plastic scraper

·        Cool base completely  - scrape all excessive cooled wax off

·        Brush with horsehair brush

·        Finish brushing with fine steel/brass roto/hand brush.

3.      Base Prepping

·        Vauhti Racing Service Blue glider is applied followed by scraping and brushing. 

·        Allow ski bases to cool completely before scraping with a plastic scraper.

·        Brush with horsehair brush

·        Then use the fine steel or brass roto or hand brush.

·        Finalize the brushing with the fine nylon brush

·        Repeat the Vauhti Racing Service Blue glider application one to two times depending on how the base looks

·        At the competitive level the Norwegian Special, a combination hard horse hair and fine steel roto brush, is the optimum brush for base preparation

·        Finish prepping by applying a layer of the new Vauhti SF Speed Fluor Base Prep Paraffin.

Note:

When using a metal roto brush, do not exert any pressure down on to the base of the ski. Drive the unit at 1000-2000 rpm’s.  This way you smooth out small defects and remove micro-hairs from the ski base.

If doing many pairs at once, use the Combi Brush or double handle that allows for two different brushes.  This alleviates the need to change brushes between passes.

4.      Ski Day/Race Day waxing:

Recreational Skiing and Training

·        Iron on glider for the day’s conditions. 

·        Let the skis cool down (Note: blue and green need to be scraped while still warm),

·        Scrape with a plastic scraper,

·        When the skis have cooled completely, brush with hard horse hair and metal brush and finish with fine nylon brush, hand or roto brush. 

o       Use full drill speed, but use absolutely no downward pressure on the system.

·        The roto cork can be used  to apply glide wax

o       Rub/crayon on the glide wax of the day

o       Slowly move the roto cork back and forth on the tip of the ski to warm the cork. 

o       When it is warm, increase the rpm’s and go back an forth covering small areas until the entire glide zones have been waxed

o       Allow skis to cool and then brush as above

Competition

·        Apply first either SF or IR fluoro blocs depending on the conditions - iron in

·        Remove excessive wax

·        Allow skis to cool completely

·        Scrape with a plastic scraper.

·        Brush with fine horse hair and fine steel/brass hand/roto brushes.

·        Apply powders, compressed fluoros, liquid fluoros or gels according to conditions.

To find out more about the application of fluoros click on the Vauhti logo below...

Click to access the Vauhti site

Roto corking

The roto cork was specifically developed to mechanically apply fluoro blocs, fluoro powders, compressed fluoros and fluoro liquids.  The fluoros adhere better onto the base due to the friction and heat created when roto corked as compared to heating them in with the iron.  Durability is also increased making this step especially important for longer races.  Again, slowly move the roto cork back and forth on the tip of the ski to warm the cork.  When it is warm then increases the rpm’s and go back and forth until the entire ski base has been covered. Roto cork small sections at a time (25-30 cm) and then do one or two passes over the entire base. Note: Do not allow the ski base to become warmer than body temperature.

Manually rub the fluoro blocs and compressed fluoros onto the base. The liquid and powders must be smeared first using the natural hand cork.

Allow the skis to cool completely and brush according to the conditions. 

Racing Service

After using the horse hair brush, clean the structure using the fine steel/brass or extra fine steel/brass hand brushes.  Finish with the fine white nylon brush.  Brush until there is no more fine powder being produced present. 

Note:  Let the skis cool down outside.  For best results, the final brushing must be done outside when the skis and the snow/air are the same temperature.  Do not press against the brushes.

Note: World Championships have been won on freshly stoneground and prepped skis as described above.